Harper's Bazaar Vietnam, Issue No. Jan 2025, proudly presents The Precious Silhouettes of the Áo Dài in the Art of Vietnam, brought to you by Editor Ngoc Anh, with special contributions from Thuc Doan, Researcher of Vietnamese Art & Culture.
The Precious Silhouettes of the Áo Dài
With the theme of Fashion & Art, let Bazaar Vietnam take a moment to admire a selection of exquisite paintings that depict the graceful and delicate image of Vietnamese women, elegantly adorned in the traditional Áo Dài.
Portrait of a Lady (Oil on Board, 1939), Lương Xuân Nhị (1914–2006)
This painting reflects the cultural and social transformations of Vietnam during the 1930s and 1940s. The woman in the painting wears a modernized áo dài designed by Nguyễn Cát Tường, embodying both beauty and the evolving role of women in a time of change, where tradition met modernity. The soft, pale pink áo dài elegantly drapes over her figure, complemented by a delicate lace scarf, white silk trousers, and a modest yet sophisticated posture. Her almond-shaped eyes and serene expression exude a quiet dignity, symbolizing the strength and grace of Vietnamese women navigating a rapidly shifting era.
This masterpiece, once part of a prestigious French collection, was auctioned at Christie's Hong Kong in 2021 for 2,125,000 HKD (approximately 500,000 USD or 12.7 billion VND).
A Timeless Symbol
Through this portrait, we witness not just the refined aesthetic of the áo dài but also a profound historical narrative—a story of Vietnamese identity, resilience, and elegance in a time of transformation.
At the Peach Blossom Market (Ink and Gouache on Silk, Mounted on Paper, 1939), Lương Xuân Nhị (1914–2006)
With soft brushstrokes and a gentle color palette, Lương Xuân Nhị delicately captures the lively atmosphere of a traditional Tet flower market. Two young women, dressed in modernized áo dài with mid-length hair, gracefully stroll through the scene, embodying both tradition and contemporary femininity. Their delicate features and elegant gestures convey a moment suspended in time, as they wander through the bustling spring market.
This rare and historically significant painting was recently auctioned at Christie's Hong Kong in November 2023 and is now part of a Vietnamese private collection. Its estimated value is approximately 200,000–400,000 USD (over 5 billion VND).
Portrait of Lê Thị Lựu (Oil on Board, 1935), Lê Phổ (1907–2001)
This rare early work by Lê Phổ captures a significant moment in his artistic journey. More than just a portrait, it offers a glimpse into the dawn of modern Vietnamese painting. Lê Thị Lựu, just 24 years old at the time, was one of the first female artists to graduate from the Indochina School of Fine Arts.
Dressed in a modernized áo dài by Nguyễn Cát Tường, she appears poised yet contemplative, standing before a backdrop of lush greenery. The subtle contrast between her melancholic gaze and her elegant attire adds depth to the composition, reflecting both personal introspection and the shifting roles of women in Vietnamese society.
This masterpiece is now part of a Vietnamese private collection. It was auctioned at Christie’s Hong Kong in 2024 for 5,040,000 HKD (approximately 650,000 USD or 21 billion VND).
Mother and Child (Ink and Gouache on Silk, 1940), Nguyễn Cát Tường (1912–1946)
The flowing lines of the LeMur-style áo dài in Mother and Child embody Nguyễn Cát Tường’s vision for a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity. The soft, pastel tones and delicate brushwork convey an atmosphere of serenity and love, capturing a mother’s tender embrace—a timeless symbol of maternal devotion in Vietnamese culture.
Beyond its aesthetic elegance, this work is deeply rooted in a historical context, reflecting the social transformations of Vietnam in the early 20th century. It was once part of a prestigious French collection and was auctioned at Sotheby’s Singapore in April 2004 for 75,000 SGD. Today, its market value is estimated at around 400,000 USD (approximately 10.4 billion VND).
Among the Lotus (Ink and Watercolor on Silk, 1933), Nguyễn Tường Lân (1906–1946)
Painted shortly after his graduation from the Indochina School of Fine Arts, Among the Lotus stands out as one of Nguyễn Tường Lân’s most poetic and evocative works. In the quiet, dreamlike scene, a young woman in a delicate white áo dài drifts among the lotus flowers, immersed in the stillness of the water. The soft hues and refined brushwork evoke a sense of purity and timelessness, embodying the artist’s mastery of silk painting.
Echoing Nguyễn Cát Tường’s design philosophy, this painting transcends traditional portraiture, offering a profound meditation on Vietnamese identity and artistic innovation. It was recently auctioned at Christie’s Hong Kong in September 2024 for 3,150,000 HKD (approximately 500,000 USD or 12.7 billion VND).
